Back in Hanoi

   In the center of downtown Hanoi is a huge military base and headquarters of the Vietnamese Army. The base is surrounded by tall walls with armed guards at all gates. The buildings and walls are all the prerequisite yellow with red roofs. On one side of the base, facing a boulevard, is a large gate and entrance to the Army Museum. As we strolled in, soldiers were marching in formation and many high ranking officers walked briskly 

between buildings. I slowly raised my camera to photograph the marching soldiers, aware that unauthorized photography is  severely punishable. I noticed the commander of the marchers saw me and did nothing. I didn't want to push my luck, so only got one shot of Army personnel.

   The centerpiece of the museum is  an outdoor display of pieces of American bombers shot down over Hanoi. We sent B-52 planes over Hanoi for years, badly damaging the city and killing ( according to the Vietnamese ) over 80 thousand people. 

   The display of wreckage is made up of the pieces of 26 B-52's shot down over the city. The pile is huge, probably 70 feet tall. It was a shocking and sobering sight. I couldn't help but think of the men who died in those planes, and the others who spent years in prisons under terrible conditions, not to mention the innocent civilians who perished. It was a chilling reminder of that bloody war. 

   Karen found the whole scene too disturbing, I walked around alone,  in silence. 

Hmong Rice Wine

  One Hmong tribal family we visited was making "rice wine". When we entered their house on a cold rainy day, the whole family was huddled in front of the wood burning still. Grandma and her son were overseeing the "wine" making process. As the children children huddled in front of the fire, Granda made sure all visitors got a sample of her product. She noticed Karen didn't have any ( it was mid morning ) and insisted the she try a glass. As I sipped her product, I remarked to Karen that it didn't taste like wine. Karen agreed that it was very strong. I peered into the large wooden vat looking  down into a clear liquid smelling strongly of alcohol. I looked next to the still and saw a large container of corn mash. I asked our interpreter/guide what I was looking at, she questioned Grandma and replied  that the left over mash was a byproduct of the  "wine " making, and would be feed to the pigs. This wasn't wine, it was corn liquor, good old moon shine !! Grandma and her son were completing a large batch of booze ! I'd guess the large vat held 35 gallons. They were very proud of it. 

The Hmong's Future

   We enjoyed visiting the Hmong and were impressed by their work ethic and strong family values. They are a simple and forthright people, struggling to adapt to changing times while grasping their culture and identity. I'm afraid we are witnessing the twilight of their tribes, from their beautiful clothing to their respect and care for their elders.  

   Our guide's children are attending school to overcome illiteracy and perpetual poverty. The Internet is showing everyone that there's a better world awaiting them out there. Her daughter is not learning the tribes traditional embroidery, and she wants her

to become more than a child bride, imprisoned on the farm. In another generation the way of life we witnessed will be gone. I guess it's inevitable with " progress " but,  the world will be a little sadder with the loss of these proud , beautiful people. 

   That's me showing our guide how PayPal works. 

Hmong children

   Unlike western children , the Hmong treat their children like small adults, a source  of labor and a benefit to the families daily struggle. Although loved and cared for, they are not coddled and pampered. They are expected to contribute what the can and do so without complaint. Very young girls are seen carrying infants on their backs, often with no mother in sight. Very young children play outside without oversight. Although the attitude is changing , many parents discourage school attendance as the child is needed for farm labor. 

    Begging by children is often seen in tourist areas, even at night. It is heart breaking to see these tiny children peddling trinkets, again, with no parents around . Signs posted by the government plead with tourists not to patronize these kids as it further encouraged them not to attend  school. It is difficult to turn your back on them. 

More Hmong farm scenes

  That's a water powered mill crushing rice for animal feed. 

  Bamboo water pipes bringing in clean mountain water.  

   Minature Pot belly pigs are allowed to wander, our guide said they return home every night without calling.

   How did they get that pig into that cage?

    Various breeds of ducks are raised.

     Many people keep dogs as pets, they are well cared for.

     Beans are grown and dried, we never saw them on menus. 

    That's a Russian jeep left over from the  war

The Hmong Land

  We hiked 6 miles to our guides village nestled in a beautiful valley surrounded by towering mountains. The land is intensively cultivated with rice wherever paddies and are feasible. Corn, their other main staple crop, is grown on sloped hillsides. They also grow various cabbages and greens,onions,carrots, indigo for dyes, and various fruits like peaches, and apples. Due to the high elevation, they can't grow tomatoes or peppers. 

   When I asked about their cash crops, our guide said they had none. I was baffled about the seemingly endless rice paddies, didn't they sell rice? No, the Vietnamese won't buy their rice, they don't like their variety. All crops are for home consumption or barter. They also always have to have a two year supply incase of crop failure, these people live on the edge. 

   Besides building schools,  the Vietnamese government has recently supplied major benefits to bring these remote people into the 21st century. In the last two years the Government has supplied concrete to the people for paving the mud path to their village. They have also brought power to some areas where the people can string lines to remote areas. 

The locals use bamboo pools to run power lines. With these benefits, the younger generation will have a better future. Our guide never attended school and lived as her great grand parents did, in the dark, illiterate, with little hope. Tourism is also a big help to the people. By hiring her directly, my guide received all the money from my visit without an agent taking 50%. I found her on line. . That's me with our guide,  her name is Tamay. We had a great week with her and enjoyed her knowledge and simple wisdom. 

Hmong houses

  We visited many houses, our guide gaining us access to enter any house   we wanted as the people casually went about their daily chores. The more prosperous villagers had wood planked exteriors with concrete floors, others had wicker or mud (?) plastered walls with packed dirt floors. At best they are drafty in this cool mountain climate. Cooking and heating fires are  in crude cement fireplaces or just on the dirt floor. I never saw a chimney, smoke drifted up and out through the open loft area where rice was cured and stored. Typically they were 3 room houses, a common room for cooking and prayer , and a couple of " bedrooms " where they sleep  on simple plank platforms about 6 feet square,  raised off the floor 8". No mattress or pillows, just blankets. It was always extended families with infants to grandparents sharing a very communal way of life. 

   These tribal people do not consider themselves Vietnamese, with their Mongolian  features, they don't look like them either. They are tiny people , adult women are 4 ft 6" to 4'10, men rarely over 5 feet. It's very hard to judge their age. Women marry at 15-16, and give birth at home alone, no Doctors, mid wives etc. They are back to work in the rice fields in a week or 10 days. These are hard working, tough people, always ready with a smile, I have the deepest respect for them.