Lessons Learned

   We are headed home today after 8 weeks and 10 countries. It was not always easy traveling with just a small carryon suitcase each, but the adventures won't be forgotten. 

    When I look back at the last two months, a few things come to mind. It bears repeating that as Americans, we were universally well treated. The typical reaction from people, whether they were taxi drivers, bathroom attendants, hotel clerks,etc, when I told them where we were from, ( I told everyone )  , was a big smile. " Ah America ! Welcome !" 

     We are loved by people from all walks of life everywhere. Yes, I was occasionally questioned about Palistine, Donald Trump, helping the worlds poor, etc, but people were quick to blame the old white men ( and Black ) in Washington for policy blunders. We were told over and over how friendly, generous, kind, and open we are as a people. For better or worse, our culture is what the world looks up to. I think half the world would emigrate if they could. 

    We did our best to show the good side of America and tried to be respectful of the many cultures we passed thru. We are profoundly thankful to be going home to beautiful Vermont, one of the nicest places on the planet. When I asked Karen what she missed most ( besides family), she said a good salad. I missed dark chocolate. 

     We depart Jordan and fly to London where we change planes for Boston. Today will be our 19 th and 20 th flights. I think we slept in 16  different places. We are due a rest. 

Jordan Security

   Spending 5 days here has made me aware of what a corner Jordan is in . It has Syria on its north border,  Iraq on its west with Saudi Arabia flanking its southern side. Israel lies between its borders and the Mediterranean. Its surrounded by noisy  neighbors, the quiet house in a noisy neighborhood. We found the Jordanian people very friendly and open to us Americans. While this troubled part of the world is often ignored by us, it desperately needs our compassion and help. There are no easy answers but we must keep an open mind to this region. 

    On a daily basis, the Jordanian people are subject to situations we Americans would find intolerable. We were constantly surrounded by machine gun totting guards and soldiers, they were always polite.  Looming security towers watched over Jerash. Soldiers patrolled Petra, we were stopped at several roadside check points , the guards eyeing our car. At one point on the Desert Highway coming back from Petra, I was scanning the highway ahead as we drove st 70 MPH. I spotted  group of SUVs pulled off the side up ahead. A soldier calmly walked out to the center line ( in traffic) and pointed at our car  to pull over. He wore a sub machine gun slung over his shoulder. Our driver hit the brakes and pulled over. A grim soldier walked up to our car and eyed us, after a few seconds, he waved us on...... 

    When entering the Amman International Airport, a military checkpoint stops every car. Military trucks with mounted machine guns flanked the checkpoint,  a machinegun totting soldier opened car doors eying passengers while another searched  the trunk. 

   Instead of TSA flunkies like we have doing internal airport security, Jordan has dozens of black suited men dead serious about checking passengers and baggage before boarding. They are clearly on high alert and dedicated to stopping the terrorists. 

   Rather than be intimidated by the layers of security here in Jordan, I found it comforting  This is the front lines in the battle against ISIS, a grim reality here.......,, we are isolated and spoiled in America. So far.........

   

Jerash

    We travelled one and a half hours north today to the city of Jerash, 15 miles from the Syrian border.  This site holds the best preserved Roman city in the world. A combination of super clean air and a lack of rainfall has resulted in beautifully preserved ruins. The huge site is about one mile square,  dotted with many wonderful buildings and ruins, many in superb condition despite being over 2000 years old. 

    Each side of Jerash has a beautiful entrance gate with 3 arches, the center for the chariots and the sides for pedestrians. The well preserved streets were paved on the diagonal to prevent chariot wheels from getting caught in the gaps. Water and sewer lines run underneath. The column lined streets were open to the sun with the roofed shops lining each side. Public fountains spouted water out of stone lions mouths. 

    The Romans loved their theater and this one was perfectly preserved and a wonderful size. Seats were numbered for reserve seating. The Romans lived well. 

    Jerash is lobbying  for membership to become a Unesco World Heritage Site, something it very much deserves. The current crisis in Syria and Iraq has profoundly affected tourism , we found the site almost empty. Our guide said each time there is a Mideast crisis, tourists stop coming. but, he said this time it's by far the worst. He said Amerca and the West have looked the other way as the Syrian government slaughters its own people. The massive influx of refugees ( we were near a camp holding several hundred thousand ) is crushing tiny Jordan with no end in sight. It's not a good situation. Our guide thanked us for coming to Jordan and asked me to tell my fellow Americans that Jordan is our friend. 

Hadrians South Gate

Pieces of the puzzle to be reassembled 

Roman engineering has stood the test of time 

This perfectly preserved column top looks like is was carved 20 years ago.

Wild hollyhocks grew every where.

Petra

   We drove 3 hours south through moon like empty desert which stretched to the horizon in all directions . Almost nothing grew , just a very rare  tiny shrub here and there. Supprisingly , we saw occasional herds of sheep or goats tended by a Shepard, who was  always rapped up in full robes and turbins, protection from the blazing sun. The desert skies here are always cloudless, never even a wisp of one. Just before we arrived in Jordan, the desert got a rare soaking of rain. 

   Petra is considered one of the 7 wonders if the world. This hidden site can only be reached by foot ( or camel ) down a long narrow, deep canyon about 2 miles long . This canyon was a natural fortress for the early builders of this holy site 2500 years ago. The Assyrians were here early as were other groups and the later Romans expanded the site further. It is primarily a burial site for early kings and later for other royalties.

    After waking down the narrow canyon, we were awestruck as we emerged into the "Treasury", the first magnificent tomb carved out of the solid rock wall, it's several stories tall. Further down the canyon are numerous crypts again carved out of solid rock . Most are empty and tourists are free to wander in most.

    The Romans had their slaves carve a amphitheater out of a solid rock face, the labor involved unimaginable. The theater seats 4000. 

     Although there were tourists here, the numbers were low . The international media had succeeded in scaring everyone away. Jordan is a partner with the Western Powers in the fight against ISIS. This has enraged ISIS who has promised revenge. Petra in the premier tourist sight in Jordan so security was very tight. The machinegun carrying guards were everywhere and were clearly nervous. Karen and I stayed well away from any groups or crowds ( mainly German ) . I kept a wary eye out. I glad we had the opportunity to see this magnificent site, amazing !!

That's me

Roman theater 

ancient terraced hillside 

Raiders of the Lost arch filmed here

More Jordan photos

  Just a few more photos of our first day . As we have experienced all over the world , people love us Americans, and are always thrilled we are visiting their country. Don't believe what you see on TV, we are well liked. 

That's me in the Dead Sea bobbing around.

View from our hotel balcony 

Top photo is moonscape of the Dead Sea valley.

Jordan

   We landed in Jordan last night ( 11:00 PM ) and were relieved to have a driver from our hotel holding a sign up with our name. It was a half hour thru the desert to our city Madaba on the highlands overlooking the Dead Sea Valley. We were pretty tired when we got to the hotel. The hotel is a family run place with about 40 rooms , vintage 1970. It's clean and comfortable but a bit dated. It's got hot water and decent internet ( in the lobby ) so I'm not complaining at $35/night. 

    Jordan is in the Fertile Crescent, the birthplace of civilization. Man first settled into towns here after the earliest beginning of agriculture 10.000 years ago. Wild wheat and other grains still grow wild here, I picked those stalks of fat grain by the side of the road, it grows everywhere. 

   We visited the markets in Old Amman and found them interesting. Amman is a city in a long winding valley. Apartment houses line the ridges with arched front shopping stores following the valley floor. These arched storefronts have various shops, we enjoyed the spice and nut shops for their wonderful variety of exotic treats. Everyone was very friendly and easy to deal with despite the language barrier. When we completed our spice purchase, the shop owner gave us each a small cup of wonderful  coffee. 

   Amman was a Roman city and its amphitheater has survived intact, we also visited a temple on a hill overlooking the valley city bellow. The hilltop site has been used since Neolithic times to present,  including Rome, the early Arab conquerors.,and  the Crusaders

   Our final stop of the day was the Dead Sea, this huge super  salty lake lies feet below sea level.  I couldn't resist swimming in its warm waters . The high salt solution hardly feels like water as I bobbed in the Sea, it almost felt oily, a very strange sensation.  When I asked our guide what was the distant land across the Sea, he replied Palistine. It took me a minute to realize he meant Israel. 

   

Back in Hanoi

  We are back in Hanoi for a couple days before we fly to Hong Kong for a night. 

 Last night the streets were blocked off in this part of the Old City. Thousands of Hanoi's young people turned out to eat at little restaurants, drink beer and socialize. Street entertainers put on various shows from classical Vietnamese folk drama to a Michael Jackson impersonator moon walking to Vietnamese dubbed music. As we paused to watch, a young couple pulled out 2 chairs and motioned for us to sit with them, a kind act. We sat for a while taking in quite a scene. 

     Although the French left Vietnam over 60 years ago, their traditional bread has survived. The baguettes sold on Hanoi streets are as good as any you'll find in Paris. 

    Vietnamese women hate getting any kind of tan, it's a sign of being a poor farm girl. Middle class women dressed in their western style outfits will put on the traditional peasants cone hat to keep their skin white. 

    The Vietnamese make nice quality porcelain which is seen everywhere for sale. The Chinese make cheap copies but it doesn't compare to the local wares. We bought some and mailed it home, a leap of faith.